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AmalFragrances
Journal

The Story of Oud

By Zara Qureshi · 20 May 2026 · 7 min read

From infected agarwood trees to the most precious material in perfumery: a short history of oud.

Oud, also called agarwood, is one of the most expensive raw materials in the world. Yet it begins with an injury.

How oud forms

When an Aquilaria tree is infected by a particular mould, it defends itself by producing a dark, fragrant resin. Over years, the heartwood becomes saturated with this resin. Only a small fraction of wild trees ever develop it, which is why genuine oud has always been rare.

A long history

Oud has been burned as incense across Asia and the Middle East for millennia. In South Asia, oud oils and attars have been part of weddings, religious occasions and royal courts for centuries.

What does it smell like?

Oud is complex: woody, smoky, leathery, sometimes animalic, sometimes sweet and fruity. Cambodian oud tends towards fruit and honey, Indian oud towards earthy and animalic, and Southeast Asian ouds can be bright and woody.

Sustainable oud

Wild Aquilaria is now protected. Responsible perfumers use plantation-grown, cultivated oud and high-quality accords. At Amal Fragrances, our Black Oud Ember blends a sustainably cultivated oud oil with an accord inspired by the classic attars of Lahore.

How to wear it

A little goes a long way. Start with one spray and let it develop; oud reveals new facets over many hours.